Thursday, 28 February 2019

High quality gemstone faceting - Hearts and Arrows

The commercial realities of gem-cutting means there is little emphasis placed on high-quality gemstone faceting. To obtain as great a carat yield as possible from rough, various methods are used to squeeze cuts out of the gemstone while bypassing visible inclusions at the expense of symmetry. Since each carat is real money, gem-cutters and sellers shut their eyes to optical defects.
High-quality gem cutting ensures the perfect flatness of facet surfaces that increase a gemstone’s ‘fire’. Fire produces sparkle – light patches of colour different from the main colour of a gemstone – and is one of the advantages of a faceted gemstone.

The quality of faceting is not shown in gemstone certificates. Gemstone laboratories have systems of grading cuts, but they prefer not to draw attention to it as they don’t want to reduce the appeal of the gemstone.
When it comes to diamonds, the hearts and arrows diamond is the masterpiece. What precisely is 'hearts and arrows'? When viewed from the top (crown), an ideally cut diamond should reveal eight symmetrical arrows. When the diamond is viewed from the bottom (pavilion), it should reveal eight symmetrical hearts. Not all diamonds with an ideal cut rating (AGS) or excellent cut rating (GIA) will automatically qualify as a hearts and arrows diamond. The formation of a precise patterning is due to extreme care that is taken when polishing each facet to exact angles and proportions. This level of precision goes far beyond the criteria needed to achieve a “excellent” symmetry rating.
There is a premium placed on super ideal cut diamonds, and while vendors advertise their inventories with fanciful marketing, the details are essential.
The hearts patterning is particularly critical.

Properly formed hearts require super precise facet placements and proportioning. Any slight deviations in facet alignments will show up in the pavilion view.

Tuesday, 26 February 2019

JAR - High Jewels

Joel A. Rosenthal
His name might not be as recognizable as Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, but Paris-based, American jeweler Joel A. Rosenthal is considered one of the world's most influential gem artists.

Rosenthal is famously reclusive and does not lend his designs for magazine shoots or red carpet appearances, however his jewelry is some of the world's most sought after.

JAR Poppy Brooch
Raised in the Bronx, New York, the 73-year-old designer is highly regarded for his pavé work– a technique that entails setting diminutive gems in even smaller settings to create a rolling surface of stones.

Considered one of the greatest contemporary jewellers, JAR is synonymous of exceptional craftsmanship. JAR jewels are rare and when they come up for auction they attract the interest of the world’s most demanding collectors.

Monday, 25 February 2019

Lady Gaga wows Oscars with $ 30m Tiffany diamond

The 128 karat Tiffany’s yellow diamond necklace that Lady Gaga displayed was last worn by Audrey Hepburn at her ‘Breakfast At Tiffany’s’ press tour in 1961.
The iconic canary yellow Tiffany diamond was the center stone.

Sunday, 24 February 2019


Mauboussin was founded in 1827 by M. Rocher and J. Noury. They specialized in the manufacture of unique and exquisite jewellery. By the early 1930s they had successfully exhibited their pieces dedicated to gemstones.

One exhibition centered around emeralds, another for rubies while the third was dedicated to diamonds. Those exhibitions cemented Mauboussin's reputation as one of the world's most exquisite jewelers.
Today Mauboussin is regarded as the French equivalent to Tiffany's and is a global jewellery brand.

Mauboussin, c 1925

Mauboussin, 1950s

Friday, 22 February 2019

Harry Winston

Harry Winston Oval Paraiba Tourmaline Ring
Harry Winston, Inc. is an American luxury jeweler and producer of Swiss timepieces. Named after its founder, the jeweler Harry Winston, the company has its headquarters in New York.

Harry Winston is a wholly owned subsidiary of The Swatch Group, which acquired it in January 2013.
Harry Winston, Inc. has retail locations in more than twenty cities worldwide, including New York, Beverly Hills, Chicago, Paris, London, Las Vegas, Shanghai, Tokyo, and Singapore.

Harry Winston (1896-1978)

Harry Winston Histoire De Tourbillon 8 Watch