Tuesday, 31 October 2017


Buccellati is known for the impeccable quality of its Italian gold. Founded in 1919, it is the patriarch of haute Italian jewelry. Italian Goldsmith Mario Buccellati opened his shop in Milan, and was the first among Italian Goldsmiths to open a shop on Fifth Ave in New York and later in Palm Beach.

As his popularity gained, his clientele came to include the Vatican and the Royal Courts of Europe, leading to his nickname, “The Prince of Goldsmiths.”
Mario Buccellati drew upon the work of the Renaissance and Eighteen Century craftsman for design. The brand has cultivated a style all its own, distinguished by the use of refined techniques such as tulle, lace and honeycomb.

The house also gives jewelry a fabric effect by brushing and mattifying metals, and it often mixes silver and gold for texture and light enhancement. Dense gem encrustation gives Buccellati’s jewelry its rich texture.
The company works through a stable of nearly 300 artisans throughout Italy. The company only produces one of a kind or extremely limited editions of their pieces. It produces about 4,000 pieces per year, including handmade silver objects and watches.

Colombian emerald mine Esmeracol

Fura Gems, a new gemstone mining company headed by Gemfields veteran Dev Shetty, has purchased 76 percent of Colombian emerald mine Esmeracol for $10.2 million.
Current owner Emporium will continue to hold a 21.71 percent interest in the mine with the other 2.29 percent retained by minority holders.
Open for 400 years, it has produced some of the finest emeralds in the world. Lately, it has operated on a small-scale basis. Fura plans to modernize it and ramp up production.

Colombia's emerald production has plummeted in recent years.

Sunday, 29 October 2017

The Donnersmarck Diamonds up for auction

The Donnersmarck Diamonds are two yellow diamonds, named after their one time owner Henckel von Donnersmarck. One, a baguette-shaped diamond weighing 102.54 carats, was last sold for $3.246 million in 2007. The second, tear drop in shape and weighing 82.48 carats, was sold for $4.666 million. The combined estimate is $9 - $14 million.
Sotheby’s is also offering “The Raj Pink” at the sale, the world’s largest known fancy intense pink diamond, weighing 37.30 carats with an estimate of $20 - $30 million.

Sotheby’s Geneva auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels runs November 15 at the Mandarin Oriental, Geneva.

Friday, 27 October 2017

Centuries of Opulence: Jewels of India

According to the Indian life science Ayurveda, wearing a diamond will guarantee long life, endurance and beauty. Quality was paramount. Only the finest gems and purest gold would evoke maximum power to honor the gods and serve as talismans to ward off evil. Gemologists were valued members of royal courts in India.

The exhibit runs at GIA in Carlsbad from October 13, 2017 to March 1, 2018.

Thursday, 26 October 2017

Rubellite/Pink Tourmaline

There has been increased interest in fine pink tourmaline gems. A major reason is the market for pink tourmaline, like much of the jewelry industry, is driven by Chinese demand, where growing wealth has fueled an insatiable appetite for fine jewelry.

Elbaite is the most well-known and valuable form of tourmaline. Almost all of the tourmaline gemstones are of the elbaite variety.

Wallace Chan's ’Vividity’ brooch, with a rare elbaite tourmaline in the centre.

Empress Dowager Tz’u Hsi. A large pink tourmaline, along with pearls, adorns her headdress.
China’s demand for pink tourmaline, and the pinkish-red variety known as rubellite, is not new. Part of this penchant for the pink stone is owed to the fact that pink tourmaline was the favorite gemstone of the Empress Dowager Tz’u Hsi of China in the late 19th century.

During the late 1800s, much of the pink and red tourmaline mined in California, where the gem was first found in 1890s, was shipped to China.
The gemstone’s popularity has pushed prices for high quality pieces to ever higher levels.
Today most tourmaline comes from Africa, particularly Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria and Tanzania.

Tourmaline is a silicate compounded with aluminum, iron, magnesium, sodium, lithium or potassium. Tourmaline has a hardness level of 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. It is extremely durable. The best tourmaline displays excellent transparency and a vitreous luster.

White gold, one 14.27-carat cushion-shaped rubellite, brilliants. Cartier.

Platinum, mandarin garnets, pink tourmalines, tanzanites, tsavorite garnets, yellow diamonds, brilliants. Cartier.

Hemmerle often incorporates large, vivid colored pink tourmalines and rubellites.

Robert Procop ring featuring a 31.74-carat rubellite surrounded by a melange of pavé diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies.

Buccellati Dream Cuff Bracelet in white and yellow gold with tourmaline and diamonds

Panthère de Cartier Bracelet set with a rubellite, pink sapphires, diamonds and onyx

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady’s Cocktail Ring set with diamonds, carved rubellite and turquoise